ONI Awa Shoai Fabric 

ONI Denim's "Awa Shoai" fabric is a premium artisanal Japanese selvedge denim line renowned for its hand-dyed natural indigo using the traditional Awa Shoai Aizome technique from Tokushima Prefecture. This method involves labor-intensive hank dyeing on thick cotton yarns, yielding an uneven, richly textured surface. ONI selects a special combination of extra thick yarns and hand arranged the yarns on the shuttle loom to create its unique mid heavyweight fabric. The thick, irregular yarns absorb dye unevenly, creating slubby textures and a three-dimensional feel.

Development of this type of fabric takes 14-18 months per batch due to the artisanal hand dyeing process combined with low tension weaving on antique shuttle looms, resulting in weights from 15oz to 20oz. The listed oz is gauged by hand in this case.

What is Awa Shoai hand dyeing?

Awa Shoai dyeing, or Awa Shoai Aizome (Japanese word for indigo), is a traditional Japanese natural indigo (Awaai) hank-dyeing method from Tokushima Prefecture, applied to thick cotton yarns for ONI Denim by hand-tying skeins before immersion. Yarns are dyed to the core for deep penetration and minimal white core exposure, unlike rope dyeing, enabling unique texture and fading. The process spans months, starting from indigo cultivation. Usually the hank dyed natural indigo yarns doesn’t create a contrasty fade, as it lacks the same gradation like the rope-dyed indigo yarns. 

What is Hank Dye?

Hank dyeing dyes cotton yarn in loose skeins (hanks) rather than in long, tensioned ropes. The yarn is bundled, tied, and repeatedly immersed in indigo vats, allowing dye to penetrate slowly and unevenly.

Unlike modern rope dyeing—which prioritizes speed, consistency, and shallow dye penetration—hank dyeing accepts variability as a feature, not a flaw.

ONI 277 (270) fit

Updated from ONI 288 fit: The new 270 fit is an updated regular straight cut with a comfortable high-rise, the rise is slightly higher compare to 288. It offers a classic, timeless silhouette with a bit more room in the thigh than 288, flowing straight down from the knee. The leg opening is slightly narrower than 288.  This  subtle tapered effect results in a clean straight look. 270 is versatile for wearing smart or casual, pairing well with almost any type of shoes. It has a relaxed but tailored look that is suitable for most body types.

How much does ONI 'Secret Denim' stretch in the waist?

Typically 1.5 - 2 inch (~ 4-5cm) in waist circumference. Basically you can expect them to stretch at least half size more than other Japanese jeans brands. If you have a tummy / belly, go for a safe size. If you’re lean in the stomach, go for a more fitted one.

ONI jeans general size recommendation

Go up at least 2 sizes from major US brands. Usually the same or go down 1 size from other Japanese brands.

Detail

• Some where between16 ~ 20 oz
  
• Unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
• One-wash for us, hence no shrinkage
• 100% cotton
• Indigo x white
• White selvedge ID
• High rise
  
• Regular straight leg
  
• Slight tapered
  
• Regular leg opening
  
• Ultra low-tension weaving, superb comfort and short break-in time
  
• ONI branded doughnut buttons 
  
• Hidden rivet pockets
  
• Raised belt loops
  
• Veg-tanned leather patch
  
• Made in Japan
  
• Super limited production

Size Chart