Washing or Not Washing: Both Are Actually Right

When it comes to jeans—especially raw denim—one of the most frequently discussed questions is simple: should you wash them or not?

The debate between the “wash” camp and the “no-wash” camp has gone on for years, and it rarely reaches a clear conclusion.
Before we go any further, however, it’s worth stating the answer first:

Both washing and not washing are perfectly valid choices.

It might sound like we’re avoiding the question, but the truth is that denim fading has always been a highly personal process.
The way jeans age is incredibly free and full of individuality. Every pair tells its own story, shaped by how it’s worn and lived in. What matters most is simply enjoying the process of breaking them in.

In the following sections, we’ll explore how the “wash” and “no-wash” approaches affect the fading process and the final look of your jeans. Hopefully this will help you feel more confident choosing the approach that suits you best.

Denim Fading Is an Unavoidable Physical Process

At its core, denim fading is simply a physical process.

Unless special dyeing techniques are used, the indigo or black dye on denim yarns will gradually wear away through friction and everyday wear. In other words, fading will happen whether you wash your jeans or not.

Nudie Jeans, a brand well known for celebrating the beauty of denim aging, has also shared experiments comparing these two approaches. Their results clearly show how different fading patterns can emerge depending on how the jeans are treated.

The Washing Approach: Softer, More Even Aging

Let’s start with what happens when jeans are washed regularly.

During the first wash, much of the starch left in the fabric from production is removed. As a result, the denim becomes noticeably softer, and the sharp creases formed during early wear become less pronounced.

Washing also allows the yarns within the fabric to subtly rearrange themselves. Over time, this often creates a more layered and textured fading pattern.

If the jeans are washed more frequently, the dye tends to fade more evenly across the fabric. The overall color gradually shifts toward a brighter blue tone, sometimes with a slightly greyish cast.

After multiple washes, jeans usually develop a soft, light-blue vintage appearance. This style of fading can be traced back to the 1950s, when jeans began transitioning from workwear to everyday casual clothing.

At that time, people simply washed their jeans like any other garment. Over time, this helped shape the classic light-blue vintage look we recognize today.

However, washing too early or too frequently can also have drawbacks, such as shrinkage.

Unless the denim is unsanforized, many enthusiasts recommend waiting around six months before the first wash. By that point, the waistband and other stress areas—such as the knees—have typically stretched slightly, reducing the risk of shrinkage or losing the creases formed during wear.

Excessive washing can also gradually thin the fabric, which may reduce the overall durability of the jeans.

The No-Wash Approach: High-Contrast Workwear Fades

Now let’s look at the opposite philosophy: not washing your jeans.

If you observe closely, jeans worn for long periods without washing often develop stronger, more dramatic fading patterns. However, achieving this look usually takes more time and patience.

During extended wear, sweat, body oils, and environmental dirt all become part of the aging process.

As natural wear develops, areas that experience the most pressure and friction—such as the thighs, knees, and hems—lose dye more quickly. Meanwhile, areas that remain relatively untouched retain their darker color. This contrast creates the bold, high-contrast fades often associated with vintage workwear.

For those who enjoy a rugged, heritage-inspired look, this method can produce especially striking results.

However, going long periods without washing also has its trade-offs.

When denim remains stiff for extended periods, the creases formed during daily wear continue to experience concentrated stress. This can make the fabric more prone to tearing, especially in heavier denim.

Additionally, sweat, oils, and dirt can gradually weaken the fibers themselves, potentially shortening the overall lifespan of the jeans.

A Balanced Approach: Moderate Washing

Looking at both sides, the most ideal approach often lies somewhere in between.

If you want beautiful fades while also allowing your jeans to last for many years, a balanced method—what we might call “moderate washing”—is often recommended.

A good guideline is to wait around six months before the first wash. By then, the creases have usually set in place and the waistband has relaxed slightly.

After that, washing the jeans roughly every couple of months can work well.
You’ll likely notice the fades becoming more defined, and you can always adjust the washing frequency depending on the look you prefer.

Eventually, there will come a day when you look at your jeans and feel that the fading has developed exactly the character you were hoping for.

At that point, the journey of breaking them in may already feel complete.

What Makes Denim So Special

In the end, denim fading is a story told over time.

It reflects your lifestyle, your daily routines, and the places you go.
No two pairs of jeans will ever fade in exactly the same way.

As long as you choose the approach that suits your lifestyle—whether washing often, rarely, or somewhere in between—you’re already doing it the right way.

So, How Should You Wash Your Jeans?

• First Wash: Unless the jeans are specifically labeled as unsanforized and unwashed, most raw denim can be worn without washing at first. Many people recommend wearing them for about six months before the first wash to achieve the best fading results.
• Washing Method: Hand washing is recommended, or turn the jeans inside out and place them in a laundry bag before using the washing machine on a gentle cycle. Avoid detergents that contain bleach.
• Drying Method: Do not tumble dry, as this may cause significant shrinkage. Turn the jeans inside out and air dry them in the shade. If sunlight is needed, limit direct sun exposure to about 30 minutes and allow the rest of the drying process to happen naturally.