Description

ONI Denim's "Awa Shoai" fabric is a premium artisanal Japanese selvedge denim line, renowned for its hand-dyed natural indigo using the traditional Awa Shoai Aizome technique from Tokushima Prefecture. This method involves labor-intensive hank dyeing on thick cotton yarns, yielding an uneven, richly textured surface.

ONI selects a special combination of extra thick yarns and carefully arranges them by hand on vintage shuttle looms. The thick, irregular yarns absorb dye unevenly, creating pronounced slub texture and a distinct three-dimensional character.

Each batch takes approximately 14–18 months to develop, combining natural indigo dyeing with ultra low-tension weaving. The final fabric typically ranges from 15oz to 20oz, with the weight assessed by hand rather than machine.

What is Awa Shoai Dyeing?

Awa Shoai Aizome is a traditional natural indigo dyeing method from Tokushima, Japan. It uses locally grown indigo (Awaai) and applies a hank dyeing process where yarns are tied into skeins before being immersed in dye vats.

Unlike rope dyeing, this technique allows dye to penetrate deeply into the yarn core, resulting in minimal white core exposure. The fading process is therefore softer, more gradual, and less contrast-heavy.

The entire process often begins with indigo cultivation and can take several months to complete.

What is Hank Dye?

Hank dyeing refers to dyeing cotton yarn in loose skeins rather than in tensioned rope form.

The yarn is bundled, tied, and repeatedly immersed in indigo vats, allowing dye to penetrate slowly and unevenly. Unlike modern rope dyeing—which prioritizes speed and consistency—hank dyeing embraces irregularity as part of the fabric’s character.

Fit – ONI 270

The 270 fit is an updated regular straight cut with a comfortable high rise. Compared to the 288, it offers slightly more room in the thigh while maintaining a clean, straight silhouette from the knee down.

The leg opening is slightly narrower than the 288, creating a subtle tapered effect while still reading as a true straight fit. This makes it highly versatile for both casual and more refined styling.

Sizing & Stretch

ONI “Secret Denim” typically stretches about 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) in the waist. Compared to most Japanese denim, the stretch is more noticeable, often reaching at least half a size.

If you carry weight around the waist, going with a safer size is recommended. If you have a lean build, a more fitted size will break in comfortably over time.

Details

• 16–20oz Japanese selvedge denim
• Unsanforized fabric (one-wash, no shrinkage)
• 100% cotton
• Indigo × white
• White selvedge ID
• High rise
• Regular straight fit
• Slight taper
• Ultra low-tension weaving for comfort and fast break-in
• ONI branded doughnut buttons
• Hidden rivets
• Raised belt loops
• Vegetable-tanned leather patch
• Made in Japan
• Limited production

Size Chart