ONI DENIM
【ONI DENIM】200-Ishikawadai 15oz Denim Wide Straight Jeans
Description
The ISHIKAWADAI "石川台" spinning machine, a 70 years old machine from 1953, is one of the longest-serving spinning machines in Japan today(probably the oldest in the world as well). This Ishikawadai denim has the appearance of a vintage 50s denim made from slubby yarns. But atually it utilizes "straight yarns" rather than the common "slub yarns" for Japanese selvedge denim. The reason is the yarns spinned by Ishikawadai machine come with an organic vintage appearance that is no where to be found. Using this yarn for both warp and weft. In combination with a vintage shuttle loom, the result is a truly authentic and atrisanal double ring-spung denim like you see here.
The weaving speed of Ishikawadai machine is only about one-third of the modern ring spinning machine. It seems to be inefficient, but in exchange it produces a very high-level finished product. Yarns spinned by Ishikawadai sing spinning machines often have a hand-spun feel close to hand-spun yarns due to its old mechanisam and slow made nature.
ONI uses size of 6 yarns for Ishikawadai spinning machines as the base for this denim, and uses old-fashioned shuttles from the 1950s. The yarn is slowly woven into a fabric full of concave and convex textures, dyed with a blue-green tone, which is the reminiscent of the Secret Denim series, and also shows nostalgia of a old-times jeans style.
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There is only 1 loom that are able to produce ONI Ishikawadai denim in the world. It can experience failure or breakdown anytime. Making the denim extra precious and valuable.
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,Oishi-san
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What's cool about the hand feel of this double ring spun denim is that it is super soft and crispy at the same time. When putting aside other vintage style jeans, the iconic blue hue similar to Secret Denim undoubtedly makes it stand out but not too loud to put on. The unique construciton by ONI lends it an air-ventilating wear experience which is the best part about ONI I like.
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Sven, Store Manager
History of ring spinning machine
The ring spinning machine was invented by John Thorp in the United States in 1828 and was put into practical use in the 1840s, mainly for spinning thick fabrics. However, in Japan, it was adopted in the field of thick yarns around 1890. Over time, automation progressed to improve efficiency and quality, resulting in the production of "faster" and "straighter threads" using computer control, as well as the ability to produce various shapes of uneven threads (slub threads).
Ishikawa Ring Spinning Machine
In 1953, Ishikawa Seisakusho Co., Ltd. manufactured a Japanese-made ring spinning machine called "Ishikawa-dai," which is said to be the oldest spinning machine still operating in Japan, as the manufacturer has no records of earlier ones.
Comparing to the latest ring spinning machines, "Ishikawa-dai" spins at a slower speed of about one-third, resulting in lower productivity. When comparing to an open end spinning machine, which is 5 times faster than modern ring spinning machine, Ishikawa takes 15 times more in the yarn spinning process than the mass produced open end denim.
Due to less stress on the cotton, it retains the gentle texture of the original cotton, and the natural expression that cannot be produced by computers, making it appear as if it were hand-spun yarn (uneven). This is a unique feature of "Ishikawa-dai."
ONI 200 fit
ONI 200 fit seat on a sweet spot between the popular regular straight like 288 & Wide straight jeans like 222. With the traditional configuration of high waist and wide straight legs, 200 fit focuses on the classic appearance, and cancels the N-shaped brand pocket arcuate design on the back pocket. The plain fabric makes the appearance more minimalistic, and at the same time strengthens the matching possibilities with various items and styles. The wide trousers provide enough space for movement, which can effectively reduce the discomfort caused by humidity and heat in Taiwan's subtropical climate. If you're wearing this in a dry climate, it will give you an unprecedented experience if you are new to wide jeans.
How much does ONI stretch in the waist?
ONI will stretch out fairly fast so you can expect it to stretch at least 1 inch after first day to 1 week of wear. Ishikawadai Denim can stretch up to 1.5-2 inch in the waist with about 30 wears depends on the fabric.
ONI jeans general size recommendation
Go up at least 2 sizes from major US brands. Usually the same or go down 1 size from other Japanese brands.
Details
- Special light yellow beige stitching
- 200 fit comes with no pocket arcuate stitching
- 15oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
- One-wash for us, hence no shrinkage
- Traditional Japanese sun-dried method
- Rope-dyed
- Ring spun yarns
- 100% cotton
- Indigo x beige
- Pink selvedge ID
- Peek-a-boo selvedge coin pocket
- Mid high rise
- Wide straight silhouette
- Wide leg opening
- Ultra low-tension weaving, superb comfort and short break-in time
- ONI branded doughnut buttons
- Hidden rivet pockets
- Vintage style dented copper rivets
- Raised belt loops
- Veg-tanned horsehide leather patch
- Made in Japan
*The 2026 batch comes with 6 fits - 270, 295, 200, 222, 121S, 146S
Size Chart
| Waist | Rise | Thigh | Inseam | Hem | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 28 | - | - | - | - | - |
| 29 | 35.6 | 26.5 | 29.5 | 84 | 21.5 |
| 30 | 37 | 28 | 30 | 84 | 21.5 |
| 31 | 38.5 | 28 | 30.5 | 84 | 22 |
| 32 | 39.5 | 28.5 | 32 | 84 | 23 |
| 33 | 41 | 29 | 32.5 | 84 | 23 |
| 34 | 42 | 29 | 34 | 84 | 23.5 |
| 36 | 44 | 29 | 34.5 | 84 | 23.5 |
| 38 | 45.5 | 29 | 36 | 84 | 24 |
【ONI DENIM】200-Ishikawadai 15oz Denim Wide Straight Jeans
Notes
- Hemming will take 3~4 working days.
- Once an item is been hemmed, it will not be eligible for return or refund.
- For the length on sanforized raw denim, it is recommend to add 2-3cm in length considering the shrinkage after first wash.
- For unsanforized denim, we normally would offer them in rinsed condition, hence there is no need to consider shrinkage.
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQ
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How to pick the best jeans size?
All our raw denim products are one-washed or sanforized, no need to worry about shrinkage.
Want to avoid sizing mistakes? We got you:
First Grader — The most useful sizing guide on the Internet.And if you’d like personalized advice, just tap the chat box at the bottom-right corner — our team is always here to help you choose the best possible sizes.
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How to return / exchange?
Our return process is hassle free: simply print 1 return label and arrange a pickup with DHL.
When you find your order unfit / does not match your expectation.
Always feel free to send us an email about how you feel or start a return.
Please note that the tshirt /underwear /socks is not applicable for return / exchange.
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How should you wash your jeans?
Always cold wash on the light cycle / gentle cycle or delicate cycle to prolong any clothing.
For your raw denim to evolve and set in shape well, we recommend wearing as long as possible before the first wash.
For the first 5 wash, we recommend you to wash by hand.
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General Care & Precautions
Please note that all indigo product including raw denim can “bleed” causing the transfer of indigo blue color from your garments to other surface like white tshirt or light color shoes. The “bleeding” will lessen with wear and after first several washes.
We high recommend you to put all your cloth in a wash bag when doing laundry.Please never use tumble dry on quality goods; never use softener; never use detergent that contain bleach.
If possible, wash your cloth in a low-spin speed to protect the garment.