Description
The latest innovative creation from ONI is “ONI Kasuri” denim (鬼絣), a rebirth of the legendary “Kihannen” fabric. Kihannen was known for its remarkably rich texture and character that captivated many denim aficionados, and it became one of the most sought-after fabrics ever produced by ONI. Unfortunately, due to various production restrictions, Kihannen is no longer in production. Fortunately, this newly born “Kasuri” denim carries the DNA of Kihannen, allowing that precious legacy to continue.
Kasuri Cloth
Kasuri wall cloth may be used in Kabuki theater as part of scene building and stage decoration. These two traditional elements became part of the inspiration behind ONI’s denim creation. Kasuri (絣) is a traditional Japanese fabric known for its distinctive blurred-edge patterns created through a resist-dyeing technique. While it is more commonly used for clothing, accessories, and everyday items, the aesthetic and cultural value of kasuri fabric also extends into decorative uses in traditional arts.
There is a category of denim characterized by pronounced slubbiness, commonly referred to as slubby denim. However, some Japanese denim makers have gone far deeper into the craft of developing slub yarns and highly textured denim, creating something even more intense known as ultra-slubby denim. This type of denim is often described as “rainy” denim, with warp yarn irregularities cascading organically like raindrops. The heavier the denim, the heavier the “rain.” On closer inspection, ONI Kasuri denim looks vividly alive, with clusters of this “rain” scattered throughout the fabric, almost like a heavy rainstorm captured in denim form.
“How did you come up with an unconventional fabric like ONI Kasuri? I know some fabrics are hard to weave on those vintage shuttle looms.”
- Sven, Store Manager
“In fact, while Kasuri is unconventional, it doesn’t employ particularly elaborate methods or specialized yarns. When creating fabric, we start with a design simulation, select appropriate yarns, and determine the density and weave count.
However, the true face and characteristics of the fabric only become apparent after weaving.”
- Oishi-san
“As a result, it doesn’t always turn out as planned. On the contrary, there are times when the fabric exceeds expectations or takes on an entirely unexpected expression.”
- Oishi-san
“The result can differ greatly from what was envisioned, and up to 50% of the fabric can end up as waste due to defects. Sometimes abandoning the project is the only option, and that is one of the major risks in fabric production.
The process of making a fabric like ONI denim involves constant risk and uncertainty until it is finally completed. That is exactly why very few apparel companies are willing to take on this kind of challenge.”
- Oishi-san
ONI 200 Fit
The ONI 200 fit sits in the sweet spot between the regular straight 288 and the wider straight 222. With its traditional high rise and wide straight leg silhouette, the 200 fit focuses on a classic appearance and removes the N-shaped arcuate stitching on the back pockets. The clean, plain look makes the jeans feel more minimal while also making them easier to pair with a wide range of styles. The roomier leg provides better freedom of movement and can also help reduce discomfort caused by heat and humidity in Taiwan’s subtropical climate. In drier climates, it can also offer a surprisingly enjoyable introduction to wide-leg denim for those new to the fit.
Details
- 200 fit with no back pocket arcuate
- 17oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
- Ultra-slubby texture
- One-wash treatment, so no shrinkage after purchase
- 100% cotton
- Indigo x white
- Mid-high rise
- Wide straight leg
- Wide leg opening
- Ultra low-tension weaving for superb comfort and a short break-in time
- ONI branded doughnut buttons
- Hidden rivet pockets
- Raised belt loops
- Vegetable-tanned leather patch
- Made in Japan
Size Recommendation
This pair fits 1 to 2 sizes smaller than most ONI jeans or other Japanese denim brands.
We recommend taking 2 sizes up.
Please refer to the size chart for more details.
Size Chart
| cm | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 36 | 37.5 | 38 | 38.5 | 40 | 41 | 43 | 45.5 |
| Front Rise | 26 | 26.5 | 27 | 28 | 28 | 28.5 | 28.5 | 29 |
| Thigh | 30 | 30.5 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 33.5 | 35 | 35.5 |
| Inseam | 82 | 82 | 82 | 82 | 82 | 82 | 82 | 83 |
| Hem | 21.5 | 22 | 22 | 23 | 23 | 23.2 | 24 | 24 |
Notes
- Hemming will take 2~4 working days.
- Once an item is been hemmed, it will not be eligible for return or refund.
- For the length on sanforized raw denim, it is recommend to add 2-3cm in length considering the shrinkage after first wash.
- For unsanforized denim, we normally offer them in rinsed (one-washed) condition, hence there is no need to consider shrinkage.
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQ