ONI Bumpy Denim

The latest “Bumpy Denim” from ONI is in fact a close relative to the previous innovative creation “ONI Kasuri” denim (鬼絣). Kasuri – a rebirth of the “Kihannen” fabric. Kihannen, known for its remarkably rich characteristics that captivated many denim aficionados, was one of the most sought-after denim fabrics produced by ONI. Unfortunately, due to various restrictions, Kihannen is no longer in production. Fortunately, we are lucky to have this newly born “Bumpy” denim, which carries the DNA of both Kasuri and Kihannen, allowing this precious legacy to continue.

What is Overdying?

The overdye technique in jeans is a process where denim fabric or completed garments are dyed again after the initial yarn dyeing. Typically with a larger or additional amount of dye to create deeper or new colors on top of the original denim. Unlike traditional dyeing—which colors the yarn or fabric once before garment construction—overdyeing applies a secondary dye bath to the woven fabric or finished jeans, sometimes resulting in unique layered colors and textures.

You can expect both the warp and weft of this colored denim to fade naturally like a pair of “natural dyed” jeans does.

When you apply overdye technique to the “loomstate” or “unsanforized denim”, it is extremely difficult to control shrinkage rate and color, making this jeans extra rare in its kind.

The result is an interesting expression of organic slubbiness different from most others, it comes with an especially soft hand that feels as comfortable as a 14oz denim.

Heavy Rain Slub

There is a category of denim characterized by pronounced slubbiness, commonly referred to as slubby denim. However, some Japanese denim makers have specialized in and deeply researched the craft of creating slub yarns and slubby denim. They have developed something even more intense and textured, known as ultra-slubby denim. This type of denim is often described as “rainy” denim, with horizontal warp yarns organically cascading down like raindrops. The heavier the denim, the heavier the "rain." Upon closer inspection of “Bumpy” denim, it appears very much alive, with clusters of "rain" scattered throughout, almost mimicking a heavy rainstorm.

ONI 277 Fit

The silhouette of the 277 falls between the 288 (Regular Straight) and 266 (Relaxed Straight), leaning slightly closer to the 266.

Due to the high-temperature garment dyeing process, this denim has a higher-than-usual shrinkage rate, and adjusting the pattern is particularly difficult.

Size Recommendation

The jeans shrunk heavily so that the rise is slightly shorter than the ONI regular straight fits. With a moderate amount of force pulling the front and back rise, they will both stretch 1cm ~ 0.5 inch in about 1 minute.

The fabric will stretch and mold to the body with wear, so we recommend picking a slightly tighter fit “in the waist” at first.

Detail

• 17oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
• Ultra slubby texture
• Prewashed during overdye process, hence no shrinkage
• 100% cotton
• Black x Black
• Black overdyed (黑染)
• Kasuri color selvedge ID
• Mid high rise
• Regular straight leg
• Regular leg opening
• Ultra low-tension weaving, superb comfort and short break-in time
• ONI branded doughnut buttons
• Hidden rivet pockets
• Raised belt loops
• Veg-tanned leather patch
• Made in Japan

Size Chart