Description

Using modern technology to recreate 70 years of history

The rarity of Dry Ace Selvage lies in how it recreates a piece of fabric from the 1950s. This isn’t about reusing vintage cloth. Instead, it’s the result of scientific reverse engineering, analyzing the original yarn production, dyeing process, and fabric structure in order to rebuild it from the ground up.

This fabric was originally discovered at a secondhand market in a heavily faded state. Now, reproduced as brand-new raw denim, it almost feels like turning back time. Nudie is excited to bring this fabric back to life, with technical support from Shinya Mills in Okayama, Japan.

The fabric comes in a versatile 14.2oz weight, featuring a vintage-grade pink selvedge ID and a rare indigo-dyed pocket embroidery that will gradually fade into a lighter blue over time.

Dry Ace Selvage is a beautifully rigid 14.2oz red-cast denim, woven by the legendary Shinya Mills in Okayama, Japan. The warp yarns are dyed with 20 dips of pure indigo, resulting in a deep, rich indigo tone with a subtle reddish hue. Woven at low tension using naturally irregular yarns, the fabric develops a textured, uneven surface that perfectly captures the idea of “imperfection within perfection.”

This fabric wasn’t created by chance. Shinya Mills carefully analyzed a distressed pair of 1950s vintage jeans, breaking down every detail before reconstructing it into a brand-new raw denim. Rebuilding something new from worn, washed, and torn originals — that’s true reverse engineering.

The unique character of Ace of Spades selvedge comes from its thick, irregular yarns, heavy indigo saturation, and low-tension weaving. These elements create a bold and highly desirable aging pattern. As the fabric wears, indigo fades quickly from the surface, emphasizing strong vertical fading.

After washing, the yarns subtly shift, softening the vertical grain and evolving into a vintage-style crosshatch texture with a salt-and-pepper effect. Because of the high indigo saturation, the dye initially bleeds into the white weft during washing, deepening the overall tone. Over time, repeated washes bring out brighter blue shades, while darker tones remain along seams and creases, creating natural contrast.

This aging behavior makes Ace one of the most expressive Japanese selvedge denims Nudie has ever used.

This is only the beginning of the Gritty Jackson Dry Ace Selvage. While it already looks incredible in its raw state, it truly comes alive after wear and washing. The red-cast base leads to brighter blue fades, the irregular texture creates a salt-and-pepper grain, and high-wear areas develop pronounced diagonal twill patterns.

There’s no question this “Ace of Spades” denim lives up to its name.

Details

• Organic cotton
• 14.2oz Japanese pink selvedge denim
• Indigo back pocket embroidery
• Tobacco-colored stitching
• Antique silver hardware
• Zip fly
• Jacron paper patch
• Mid rise
• Regular top block
• Tapered leg (wider thigh, narrower leg opening)
• Slim leg opening
• 100% cotton
• Made in Italy

* Limited quantity available at selected stores worldwide. While supplies last.