Y'2 Leather How was leather jacket created?

Y'2 Leather has accumulated decades of experience in leather garment production, meticulously focusing on every detail of every process. Their meticulous craftsmanship, including tanning, cutting, and sewing, is meticulously crafted. Their quality is recognized by both players and the industry, and they have long set the highest standard of "touching works." How do Y'2 Leather's artisans create such meticulous leather goods with their hands? A detailed official introduction documents every step of the process. Let's take a look.

Tanning process

Leather preservation

With the exception of leather sources within Japan, hides and skins are often salted to prevent them from spoiling or becoming rancid.

Cowhide hides are mainly imported from the United States, while horse hides are imported from Scandinavia, Oceania and other countries.

After washing and cooling, the horsehide is brushed with 16 to 17 kilograms of salt. If the timing is not right, insect pests, dirt and mold may appear. After completing this process, the leather is ready to be imported into Japan.

Tanning process

soaking

Soaking is an important process used to remove blood and dirt from the leather, replenish dehydrated water, restore the leather to its raw state, and facilitate subsequent chemical treatment. Dehydration and limewater soaking will cause the lime milk to swell, loosen the leather's collagen fibers, and break down and remove hair, fat, and the epidermis.

Tanning process

dorsal dissection

After unhairing and liming, the hide is split in half along the spine, a process called splitting. A fleshing machine is then used to remove the flesh and fat adhering to the inner surface of the hide. This process is sometimes performed after lime soaking, and it allows the thickness of the hide to be adjusted.

Tanning process

Layering

First, the remaining flesh and fat on the back of the hide are removed again. Then, using a band knife, the hide is separated into two layers: the face layer and the flesh layer, cut to the specified thickness. (Sometimes, the hide is separated into layers after tanning.)

Tanning process

Surface cleaning

Remove impurities such as hair follicles that could not be removed during the epilation and cutting soaking stages, and clean the surface layer. Use a razor or similar device to remove plaques.

Tanning process

Tanning soak

Re-soak in lime milk to use the alkaline property to loosen the leather's collagen fibers.

Residual lime is removed from the leather through unhairing, liming, and re-liming. This neutralizes the limed hides and facilitates the penetration of the tanning agents during the tanning process. The fermentation (oiling) process uses proteases to break down and remove unwanted proteins and create a smoother surface layer.

Next comes the pickling process. The chemicals used in the tanning process must be acidic in order to dissolve, so before the tanning process, the leather is soaked in an acidic solution to make it suitable for absorbing the tanning agent.

Tanning process

dehydration

Chrome tanning agents (trivalent chromium) penetrate the leather and bind to the collagen fibers, making it durable, including heat-resistant. This creates the wet blue color seen in the photo. The excess water is then squeezed out of the leather using a squeezer, and then a skiving machine is used to shave the inner surface of the leather to a desired thickness.

Tanning process

Coloring

The acids in the leather are neutralized with alkali and adjusted to ensure even penetration of the dye and fatliquor.

The leather is then dyed to the desired color using dyes. The basic requirements for dyes are color, solubility, and dyeing properties for leather. Dyeing is the process of coloring the material using dyes that meet these requirements.

Tanning process

dry

Drying is the process of allowing the dye and additives to fully penetrate the leather. Drying can be done naturally, with hot air, or under vacuum. This is a crucial step that directly impacts the leather's feel.

Tanning process

Stretch fixation

The leather is then moistened to make it easier to knead. A creaser is then used to stretch the leather, giving it flexibility and elasticity. Next, the leather is pinned onto tension boards or secured to mesh to dry flat and remove excess moisture.

Tanning process

coating

The surface of the leather is painted to emphasize the beauty of its color and sheen, and to enhance its durability.

Tanning process

Polishing and ironing

The surface is machine polished or ironed. If necessary, embossing and brushing are also applied.

Cutting procedure

Leather cutting

Copy the pattern onto cardboard based on the pattern printed on paper. This will make it easier to cut the leather.

In addition to the leather samples, the samples for the lining and core material were also copied onto the cardboard in the same way.

Cutting procedure

Texture classification

The transferred cardboard is sorted and managed according to product number and size, and a considerable amount of cardboard is required to make one mold. Based on this, the cutting process begins.

Cutting procedure

Texture evaluation

Even when dyeing leather using the same formula, color and sheen can vary depending on the prevailing climate and humidity. Especially with light-colored leathers, such as camel, color can be uneven even within the same piece. When cutting leather, the tailor will match the color and grain, while also imagining the finished product.

Cutting procedure

Hand-cut

After matching the color and texture, each piece of leather is carefully hand-cut by the craftsmen, especially the curved parts, which can better show the craftsmen's skills.

Cutting procedure

Piece combination

The finished pieces are assembled as shown in the pictures. The jacket's appearance will vary depending on the color and texture of the front and sleeves. Each leather jacket uses approximately 35 pieces of leather.

Thinning process

Mark thinning points

During the sewing process, leather often overlaps. By thinning the areas where the leather needs to be sewn, we can maintain the thickness of the leather while also making the seam more beautiful. This also reduces the strain on areas where the leather overlaps, such as the shoulders. Therefore, we mark and indicate the thinning points on each area. The width and thickness of the thinning varies depending on the type and thickness of the leather.

Thinning process

Manual thinning

Skilled craftsmen carefully thin the metal piece piece by piece, especially the curved parts, which are particularly challenging.

Thinning process

Smooth cut surface

This is the final result after the thinning process. If the leather is smooth and has no bumps at the thinned part, the subsequent sewing process will be much easier for the craftsman.

Sewing program

Interlining mark

The first step in the sewing process is prep work, which is to prevent matching colors from getting mixed up during the cutting process. After that, the interlining is ironed onto the desired areas, such as around the placket and hem.

The placement of the interlining will vary depending on the type and thickness of the leather. The reason for interlining is to prevent the leather from stretching and to make it fit better.

Sewing program

Edge bonding

The picture shows the back of the leather. The divided sleeves and side parts will also be neatly glued and processed. Many overseas products skip this step and sew directly, resulting in many products not fitting well.

But Y'2 takes even the invisible parts more seriously.

Sewing program

Secret "Horn"

Creating the “corners” such as the collar point, the curve of the flap, and the cuffs is very difficult.

With over 40 years of experience, we make the incisions and use secret techniques to create beautiful shapes.

Sewing program

High tension sewing

When sewing, adjust the tension of the sewing machine to the highest possible level. This is to maintain durability and prevent the thread from unraveling. If the thread floats, it will start to unravel from that part.

Sewing machines are adjusted to certain standards and sewn with care, pride and sincerity.

Sewing program

Exquisite stitching

The pockets are also overlapping and thick, but have been thinned down to create a beautiful finish. The stitching is also beautiful, firmly embedded in the leather.

Final Procedure

Buttonhole drilling

After cutting and sewing, buttonholes are drilled one by one by artisans with over 50 years of experience in this field. Unlike fabric, making buttonholes in thick leather is a very difficult process.

Final Procedure

Hand-sewn buttons

All buttons are hand-sewn. Strong buckles are installed for durability. Careful and tight wrapping creates enough space so the thick horsehide can withstand repeated opening and closing.

Final Procedure

Perfect finished product

Each garment is made through the collaboration of skilled craftsmen at every stage. Only products that pass Y'2 LEATHER's inspection, such as checking the seams, button and zipper closures, are delivered to customers.

Image source: Peregrine official website