Description

Debut in 2012, the flagship ONI “Secret Denim” quickly gained popularity among denim enthusiasts globally for its distinctive texture and remarkable softness. It provides a rewarding fast and unique fading pattern while offering an unmatched level of comfort at the same time. The “”Secret Denim “has reached the pinnacle in the Japanese artisanal denim world. It has made its way through the vast world of denim wholly by word-of-mouth. 

While vintage Levi’s utilize number 6x7 yarn for their denim, the “Secret Denim” uses 3.7x3.7 extra extra thick yarn. The origins of the yarns actually come from 3 different type of cotton mix. Woven at ultra-low tension on a vintage shuttle loom. The result is a beefier, extremely knotty unsanforized 20oz fabric with a fantastic slub, roughness and hairy texture. The warp is roped dyed with ONI’s secret recipe for a uniquely tinted blue expression. The weft is meticulously tuned to a beige color to compliment the special blue tone on the front of the fabric.

It is one of the most sought after/recommended 20oz denim. For someone who would like to try a ultra heavy denim, this would be the perfect entry and destination for some. Even if you can’t bear a heavyweight denim in summer. This is still a popular and easy option to fade in winter!

This year, the Secret Denim comes with ONI’s popular Kabuki selvedge ID, to commemorate the 14oz natural indigo kabuki selvedge denim and the 22oz natural indigo kabuki selvedge denim (in reality it is 24oz) made 20 years ago. The Kabuki selvedge ID then becomes popularized and is deemed as one of the ONI’s signature details.

"The Rebirth of Secret Denim"

In truth, ONI has produced three different versions of Secret Denim over the past decade. After the first version gained extreme popularity, its yarn supplier unfortunately went out of business following a devastating fire caused by a natural disaster. For a long time, it was believed that the original texture of the first Secret Denim could never be recreated.
   
As a result, the versions of Secret Denim ONI produced for quite some time were not made using the "original formula."

But in 2024, Mr. Oishi managed to find a new yarn supplier capable of spinning yarns that closely resembled that of the original. Thanks to that, the mysterious character of Secret Denim was finally brought back to life, letting us once again experience the magic that made it a sensation in the first place.

“The denim does have a hefty hand at the beginning. But it does not feel uncomfortable at all at the beginning. Some might share that it feels like sweatpants after several wears to several weeks of break-in.”

– Sven, Store Manager

“Even if I gave some manufacturer the recipe of this denim, they are unable to replicate what you see here.”

– Mr. Oishi

ONI 822 fit

The ONI 822 is a newly developed wide, subtly tapered silhouette built upon the foundation of the 222 fit. Overall, it offers a very relaxed cut that comfortably accommodates a wide range of body types.

Wide-leg jeans often create a flared hem appearance, but the 822 is carefully shaped with a gentle taper toward the hem. Combined with a slightly shorter length, this results in a cleaner, more streamlined wide-leg look. The outcome is a rare silhouette best described as “extremely wide yet straight,” delivering strong presence without feeling sloppy.

Like the 200 & 222 fit, the 822 removes the traditional back pocket arcuate stitching and instead features ONI’s classic woven tab detail. This is a highly distinctive and uncommon fit in today’s market, and without question, one of the most interesting designs we’ve come across.

How much does ONI 'Secret Denim' stretch in the waist?

ONI Secret Denim will stretch out fairly fast so you can expect it to stretch at least 1 inch after first day to 1 week of wear. It will stretch up to 2 inch in the waist with about 30 wears.

ONI jeans general size recommendation

Go up at least 2 sizes from major US brands. Usually the same or go down 1 size from other Japanese brands.

Detail

• 20 oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
• One-wash for us, hence no shrinkage
• 100% cotton
• Indigo x light brown 
• While selvedge ID
• High rise
• Super wide straight
  
• Wide leg opening
  
• Slight tapered leg 
• Slightly shorter inseam
• ONI branded doughnut buttons 
  
• Hidden rivet pockets
  
• Raised belt loops
  
• Veg-tanned leather patch
  
• Made in Japan
  
• Super limited production

*Both 822 & 200 are only produced without pocket arcuate.

Size Chart