Debut in 2012, the flagship ONI “Secret Denim” quickly gained popularity among denim enthusiasts globally for its distinctive texture and remarkable softness. It provides a rewarding fast and unique fading pattern while offering an unmatched level of comfort at the same time. The “”Secret Denim “has reached the pinnacle in the Japanese artisanal denim world. It has made its way through the vast world of denim wholly by word-of-mouth. 

While vintage Levi’s utilize number 6x7 yarn for their denim, the “Secret Denim” uses 3.7x3.7 extra extra thick yarn. The origins of the yarns actually come from 3 different type of cotton mix. Woven at ultra-low tension on a vintage shuttle loom. The result is a beefier, extremely knotty unsanforized 20oz fabric with a fantastic slub, roughness and hairy texture. The warp is roped dyed with ONI’s secret recipe for a uniquely tinted blue expression. The weft is meticulously tuned to a beige color to compliment the special blue tone on the front of the fabric.

It is one of the most sought after/recommended 20oz denim. For someone who would like to try a ultra heavy denim, this would be the perfect entry and destination for some. Even if you can’t bear a heavyweight denim in summer. This is still a popular and easy option to fade in winter!

This year, the Secret Denim comes with ONI’s popular Kabuki selvedge ID, to commemorate the 14oz natural indigo kabuki selvedge denim and the 22oz natural indigo kabuki selvedge denim (in reality it is 24oz) made 20 years ago. The Kabuki selvedge ID then becomes popularized and is deemed as one of the ONI’s signature details.

"The Rebirth of Secret Denim"

In truth, ONI has produced three different versions of Secret Denim over the past decade. After the first version gained extreme popularity, its yarn supplier unfortunately went out of business following a devastating fire caused by a natural disaster. For a long time, it was believed that the original texture of the first Secret Denim could never be recreated.
   
As a result, the versions of Secret Denim ONI produced for quite some time were not made using the "original formula."

But in 2024, Mr. Oishi managed to find a new yarn supplier capable of spinning yarns that closely resembled that of the original. Thanks to that, the mysterious character of Secret Denim was finally brought back to life, letting us once again experience the magic that made it a sensation in the first place.

“The denim does have a hefty hand at the beginning. But it does not feel uncomfortable at all at the beginning. Some might share that it feels like sweatpants after several wears to several weeks of break-in.” – Sven, Store Manager

“Even if I gave some manufacturer the recipe of this denim, they are unable to replicate what you see here.” – Mr. Oishi

*Please note that the 200 & 222 never comes with pocket arcuates to avoid patent issues with Levis.

Detail

• 20oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim
• One-wash for us, hence no shrinkage
• 100% cotton
• Indigo x beige
• Kabuki selvedge ID
• High rise
• Relaxed straight thigh
• Wide leg opening
• Ultra low-tension weaving, superb comfort and short break-in time
• ONI branded doughnut buttons 
• Hidden rivet pockets
• Raised belt loops
• Deerskin leather patch
• Made in Japan

*ONI Secret Denim will stretch out fairly fast so you can expect it to stretch at least 1 inch after first day to 1 week of wear. It will stretch up to 2 inch in the waist with about 30 wears.

Size Chart